In the 1960’s, Bernard Coillot founded Domaine Coillot in Marsannay. The estate consists of 11 hectares, divided among 12 independent appellations in Burgundy. Today, Bernard’s son, Christophe Coillot owns and runs the Domaine. Vines are between 20 and 65 years old, with low yields. Christophe is dedicated to low intervention farming. Operating sustainably, he does not employ herbicides, pesticides, nor insecticides. All harvesting is done by hand, all yeasts are native, and added enzymes and chaptalization are all proscribed.
This modern, sophisticated, and simple approach was not always the way of Domaine Coillot. Christophe recounts the difficulties of working with his late father as a juxtaposition to his way of doing things.Bernard Coillot was apparently not terribly keen on investment. Therefore, very old barrels were often employed, temperature controls were not. Bernard would chaptalize the wines, use enhancement additives, and basically cut corners in a typically post-WWII way. Upon ascension to head of the winery, he exacted modern transformations to dramatically improve the quality of the wine. All wines, for example, are elevaged similarly in 1/3 new oak, 1/3 once used oak, and 1/3 twice used oak, typically from 14 to 16 months.
As someone viscerally adverse to tannins, Christophe has implemented hand harvesting and little to no mechanizations in the winery, to avoid the release of secondary tannins from seeds and stems. All wines are 100% destemmed. Overall, Christophe is functionally low intervention in the winery, preferring to rely on the merits of the impact of the vineyard and the season on the grapes.
Marsannay La Charme aux Pretres 2020
La Charme aux Pretres is a somewhat difficult Lieu Dit as the soils are quite heavy, being mostly clay. Full maturation can often be difficult to achieve. However, when the elements come together, this wine is a stunning expression of both Pinot Noir, and Marsannay, offering spicy, rich berries of darker red hews on the palate. The tannins are quite soft, and lined with fruit.
This wine is from 50+ year old vines. Aged 18 months in 1/3 each new barrels, first use, and second use, the wine is made with zero intervention. The fruit profile leans more into dark blues and dark reds. The tannins are soft, allowing for the pronuncedintensity of the fruit and subtle minerals to be highlighted. It finishes extensively and fruity.