This estate in Le Marche was founded on 120 hectares in 1860. Cesare Marotti planted the first vineyard in 1886. Today there are 56 hectares of vineyards facing the Adriatic Sea, climbing up hills in the Sant’Amico village of Morro d’Alba. Previously, this was an area growing wheat and vegetables. With time, vineyards became more prevalent, as they became more profitable, and proved to be more sustainable. Today, these are delineated into 53 vineyards, sitting around 180 meters above sea level, in soils dominated by clay. The average of the vines is just above 20 years old.

Upon necessary renovations in 1991, now head, Giovanni Marotti Campi, decided it was prudent to keep with tradition and focus on the two most important grapes of the region.

Subsequently, the vineyards are planted almost entirely to Verdicchio and Lacrima, both are indigenous varieties. A modern winery was constructed in 1999 to accommodate growth at the time, and to be able to plan for the future. It runs 100% on solar power. Additionally, Marotti Campi dry farms and limits the amount of chemicals they use, as well as employs measure to prevent erosion. They like to call themselves “High tech, low intervention.” Giovanni remains at the helm, aided by his wife Francesca, and their son, Lorenzo.

As previously stated, Marotti Campi focuses on two varieties: Verdicchio and Lacrima.

Over time, and particularly in recent decades, Verdicchio has established itself as one of Italy’s great whites. It is an aromatic grape, simple and precise when young, yet relatively age-able. Within a few years after release, it can develop immense complexity, supported by a sophisticated structure. The group of 14 walled villages in the Jesi Valley, known as I Castelli di Jesi, is arguably the best place on earth for Verdicchio. It has a DOC bearing that name.  Marotti Campi’s own Luzano Verdicchio Dei Castelli di Jesi 2017 made Wine Spectator’s top 100 list, coming in at #72 in the 2019 addition of that magazine’s annual list.

Lacrima is an indigenous red, found almost nowhere else on earth than in le Marche. Typically, it is only found around the village of Morro d’Alba. Written references to this wine date back to the 12th century. Despite declining interest, it was granted DOC status in 1985, prompting a renewed, yet small interest. At that time, just 7 hectares existed. Apparently, it is a bit of a petulant brat to manage, which may be why there is very little interest outside of Le Marche, as the ability to manageme and the contextual significance of this grape is only within Le Marche itself. The name Lacrima means “tear” and references the soft, tear-like drops of juice that form on the grapes during maturity, thanks to the bursting of the delicate skins. As charming as this sounds, this is problematic, as makers of this wine need to expedite harvest. Therefore, a winemaker’s choice is to either make a very light-bodied, young-drinking wine, or to blend it with other varieties to make a more finished, international style of wine. However, upon receiving the DOC status, adherence to the rules requires a minimum of 85% Lacrima. For decades, particularly during the “Parker Years” lighter red wines were out of fashion. Marotti Campi survived this trend, and even received a Tre Biccheri. Marotti Campi’s way of carrying on with Lacrima was to focus on the fruitiness, the acids, and to let the body and alcohol, and indeed the often overbearing, floral, traits, all take a back seat. There are only about 30 producers of Lacrima, making a total of less than 80,000 cases. This is a highly specialized group.

Albiano Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico

This is 100% Verdicchio, sourced entirely from the estate, grown in clay-heavy soils. The grapes are hand-harvested, using dry ice to keep fresh and prevent oxidation. Afterwhich, the grapes are fermented in a reductive environment in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, then followed by 6 months  of aging in stainless steel tanks, and another 3 months prior to bottling.

This wine is all about the yellows and greens, from flowers to peaches to apples. This is a typically minerally, savoury, archetypal old world elegant wine. This would be ideal as an aperitif, with raw oysters, or with seared scallops, on a bed of braised leeks with pancetta.

Rubico Lacrima Di Morro d’Alba

This is 100% Lacrima grown in mostly clay soils, at 180 meters above sea level. The exposure is south to southeast.  The wines are hand harvested into small crates to avoid premature crushing. Fermentation is carried out with 10% of it whole cluster with carbonic maceration. The remaining 90% is carried out in stainless steel. The wine is aged in stainless steel for 3 months, followed by another 3 months of bottle aging. This is an exceedingly floral wine, with roses, violets, geranium, myrtle, all both dried and fresh, as well as baking spices, cranberries, and pomegranate. It is lighter mid bodied, with scratchy, young, tannins, tempered by zesty red acids.  Drink with a slight chill and salmon with a roasted red pepper coulis, with a salad of candied walnuts, goat cheese, and dried fruit, or pork tacos with pickled jalapenos.

Spumante Brut Rose

This is 100% Lacrima, sourced from south to south east facing vineyards at 180 meters above sea level. The grapes are harvested in early September, and vinified without skins. The Charmat method is employed to efficiently produce fine bubbles, while preserving freshness. The wine is aged in bottle for 6 months prior to release. Lacrima is very well equipped to be made into a sparkling wine, as it is naturally tart, acidic, floral, and savoury. With red currants, cranberries, and tart red apples, this is a great pairing with charcuterie, carpaccio, or sushi with salmon roe.